North Portugal Itinerary – Three Days in Lisbon

One of the most popular gateways in Portugal is its capital, Lisbon. Lisbon possesses a lot of cultural significance and sights to see. For these reasons, visitors should devote a fair amount of time to seeing the city prior to moving on. Three days in Lisbon is an appropriate amount of time on a 9 Day North Portugal Itinerary.

This is the first part of a four-part Portugal itinerary. All four parts are linked below:

1. Lisbon – Portugal’s Capital City (this post)
2. Fatima and Coimbra – Rural Religious Site and Ancient University Town
3. Douro Valley – Port Wine Vineyards
4. Porto – Portugal’s Industrial City and Port Wine Bottlers

Day 0 – Travel to Lisbon

A difficulty in building any itinerary is that flights from different areas of the world arrive at different times. There are multiple flight options into and out of Lisbon. These range from arrival at 5:45 AM in the morning to 4:20 PM in the afternoon. Almost all flights from North America will spend a night in transit. Therefore, I choose to designate the departure day as Day 0, and Day 1 as the first day in Portugal. I recommend arriving early in the morning and start with the Day 1 itinerary immediately. A hotel where you can drop your bags before the check-in time and freshen up from the flight vastly improves your first day.

Alternatively, if you have the time and want to arrive later in the day, travel at a leisurely pace. Once checked in, this is a great opportunity to explore the area around your hotel. It’s also a good time to scope out places to eat and get meal recommendations from concierges, hosts, or other local businesses nearby. If you find yourself with more time on an arrival day before starting this itinerary, a walking tour of Lisbon can help you get your bearings. A “free” walking tour like the one found on https://www.guruwalk.com/lisbon can be a great option. These are free, but tips are encouraged at the end of the tour based on your experience. Alternatively, if you prefer something self-guided, check out the options at GPSmyCity.com.

Day 1 – Lisbon

Arrival in Lisbon

Arrival times in Lisbon will vary depending on your originating location and flight schedules. For purposes of this itinerary, it is assumed that you have arrived in Portugal and have checked into your hotel by 10:00 AM. There are a number of flights that will enable this to happen. If you arrive slightly later than this, trim visits to one of the churches later in the day or shorten the Bairro Alto stroll. The stroll can be done any time of day (including after other attractions have closed).

Igreja de Santa Catarina

Igreja de Santa Catarina (or Saint Catherine’s Church) is located in the historic neighborhood of Bairro Alto. Known as one of the wealthiest two churches in Lisbon, this church is a statement of historical Portuguese wealth from the 17th and 18th centuries. You wouldn’t guess that the church is wealthy from the unassuming outside. However, once inside you can see beautiful architecture and gilding. The architecture spans many styles (Gothic, Renaissance, and Barouque) due to the many expansions. As one of the only buildings to survive the 1755 earthquake, this provides a rare glimpse into Lisbon and Portugal’s past. The church is most famous for its ceiling architecture, altarpiece, and gold-covered organ.

Bairro Alto Stroll

Immediately outside Igreja de Santa Catarina is the neighborhood of Bairro Alto. The next stop on this itinerary is the Igreja de Sao Roque located on the other side of Bairro Alto. While a walk to the next church is only about 10 minutes, take a little extra time to go up and down some of the side streets in Bairro Alto.

As you walk, there is one location along the main road leading away from Igreja de Santa Catarina and back towards downtown Lisbon that you should stop at. Bairro Alto has two funiculars (angled trams) that made the neighborhood famous. Perhaps the most famous is the Bica Funicular. This funicular travels up the very steep and very narrow Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo. The picture of the funicular from the top of the hill is very popular. The straight street frames both sides of the funicular track. The water and port of Lisbon can be seen at the end of the road in the distance.

If you are interested, the Gloria Funicular is also popular with tourists in this area. This funicular rides along a street with a city-sanctioned street art gallery. The street has seven exhibits that regularly change along the route. The Gloria Funicular is located nearby, and it isn’t far away for those interested in the journey.

Igreja de Sao Rogue

The next stop is the famous Igreja de Sao Roque. In addition to the Church of Saint Catherine, this church is the other richest providing an ability to compare and contrast.

Igreja de Sao Roque began as a shrine housing relics from Saint Rocco. Saint Rocco healed many victims of the Black Death plague in Europe. In the 16th century, the Jesuit order of the Catholic Church took over the shrine and began the construction of a chapel. Over the years, the Jesuit society has improved and added to the church to make it what it is today.

Attached to the church is the Museum of the Treasure of the Chapel of Saint John the Baptist. While this is quite a long name for a museum, it is worth a visit. The museum houses several pieces from baroque-era goldsmiths and religious vestments from the chapel commissioned by King John V of Portugal.

Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara

The Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara is a hilltop viewpoint overlooking large portions of Lisbon (including the castle on the opposite hill). The viewpoint has two levels and is a well-groomed park. Artwork covers the two terraces of the park, and two cafés serve drinks and light food. The multi-level viewpoint is one of the largest in Lisbon and is a well-known symbol of the city.

The cafés serve beer, wine, and snacks. I recommended purchasing a drink/snack, sitting, and enjoying the views after the movement of the day. Alternatively, if you want to save a little money, pack your own bottle of wine and enjoy it at the top. Just remember to bring a corkscrew and a few cups/glasses. By this time, you are also likely to be ready for lunch. Depending on how hungry you are, grab lunch at an area restaurant prior to heading to Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara or grab a bite to eat after seeing the viewpoint.

Convento do Carmo

Convento do Carmo, a 14th-century church destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, displays the destructive power of the earthquake for all to see. Most of the walls, columns, and arches of the church survived the earthquake, but the roof collapsed on All Saints Day. The community cleaned up the debris but never rebuilt the church. The church contains medieval style architecture as much of the building dates back to the 1300s. While the church architecture is beautiful, the eerie destruction is the primary attraction.

A small sacristy that wasn’t destroyed by the earthquake houses an archaeological museum on site. The museum houses several tombs, an Egyptian mummy, and some stone engraved tablets from Pope Clement VII. Finally, there is a theater room in the sacristy that plays a 15-minute film providing a history of the monument.

Alfama Tram Sightseeing

The old trams that take Lisbon residents up and down the hills of the city are a quintessential part of the experience. For this reason, even if you aren’t using it for transportation, a ride on a famous yellow tram is required. Lucky for us there are a number of trams that can transport you to Lisbon Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge), the next stop on the itinerary. While it might not be the most direct route, riding the trams offer an opportunity to sightsee along a scenic route. Take lots of pictures and get a feel for the Alfama area as you move.

The cost of the tram is €3/person each way. If you’re using public transit at least twice in the day, I recommend getting the unlimited public transit pass. The pass is valid 24 hours after the first use and allows unlimited use of the metro, tram, and bus services. The 24-hour pass is €6.60. While the ticket costs slightly more than 2 rides on the tram, the reduction in hassle is worth €0.60. Many trams (especially those with automated ticketing machines) require exact change too. A Lisboa Card includes unlimited public transportation. If you’re using one of these, don’t worry about purchasing tram tickets.

As with many places that attract large amounts of tourists, pickpockets can be a concern on these trams. Keep a constant eye on your belongings. Don’t wear anything across your back while on the trams. If you are carrying a backpack or purse, put it in front of you so you are able to watch it the whole time. It is an unfortunate reality that pickpockets exist in these situations, but with a little care, you won’t have anything to worry about. If you make yourself a hard target, they will bother someone else who is an easier target.

Finally, there are two tram lines in the area that will likely be the best fit. The most scenic line is Tram Line 28. However, Tram Line 28 is a one-way tram meaning that to see a lot of the route will require two tickets to return to the center of the city. The other issue with Line 28 is that it is so very popular with tourists that it is almost always standing room only. This also attracts a lot of pickpockets. The next best tram line is Line 12. While slightly less scenic, there is almost always seating available, and the route is a loop. If taking Line 12, walk to the Pç. Figueira Tram Stop (you can take the Sta. Justa lift along the way). From there take Tram Line 12 to the Portas do Sol stop.

Lisbon Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge)

This is the biggest sight for tourists in the Alfama neighborhood. While this means that many people will be coming to see it, it is still worth the price of admission. The castle possesses ten towers, restored battlements/walls, and 360-degree panoramic views of the city.

The beginnings of the castle originate in 200 BC when the Romans established a fortification on the site. The Visigoths and Moors upgraded the fortifications during their reigns until they were conquered by Christian Crusaders in 1147. The castle has been under Portuguese rule since 1147, with the capital of Portugal being in the castle for many years between the 1200s and 1500s. In 1531, an earthquake damaged the castle. Lisbon demoted the castle to use as an arsenal and prison at that point. The castle was completely leveled by an earthquake in 1755 and left in disrepair until 1938. The current structure is the rebuilt castle from 1938.

The castle is perched on a hill so be prepared for some uphill walking and a lot of steps. There are accessible routes with reduced inclines through the castle. However, be warned that these accessible routes don’t go to all areas of the castle.

Exploring Chiado

If you are still up to exploring one other nearby neighborhood before calling it a day, the Chiado neighborhood has to be next. This historical district is famous for luxury shopping, theaters, and entertainment.

The vast majority of buildings originate from the late 1700s. The Chiado community restored many of the buildings in the 1990s (after a neighborhood fire destroyed the area in 1988). While you should stroll through several of the streets (Rua Garrett being the main street), some highlights include:

• Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro Building – Tiled building façade displaying mythological figures of Earth, Water, Science, Agriculture, Commerce, and Industry
• A Braileria Café – Famous for the common writing location of poet Fernando Pessoa
• Bertrand Bookstore – World’s oldest operating bookstore founded in 1732

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Day 2 – Lisbon

Walk the Belém Waterfront

The Tagus River waterfront in the Belém area is a great way to start a day. Several of the attractions in the Belém area don’t open till 10 AM, so walking the waterfront in the morning is a great way to get a feel for the area and maximize your time.

Start the walk from the Belém Metro Station. From there, cut over to the waterfront before getting to the MAAT. The MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology) is a unique building located near the beginning of the Belém waterfront. As you travel west on the Tagus River waterfront, there are several docks and marinas, waterfront promenades, and parks. Take your time exploring the river views.

Belém Tower

Originally constructed as a defense for Lisbon against attack, Belém Tower served as a naval gateway to the city. In addition to serving a defensive role, it is also famous as the embarkation and disembarkation point for Portuguese explorers in the 16^th century and beyond.

The Portuguese monarchy completed the tower in 1519 during the height of the Portuguese Renaissance. Portugal constructed the tower in a Manueline style complete with towers, turrets, prisons, and ramparts for which to defend the city. The builders assembled a four-story tower from the local white limestone.

Belém Tower sells a combo ticket to access the tower and Jeronimos Monastery. While you don’t save anything, it’s nice not to stand in line at both places. Belém tower is also accessible with the Lisboa Card. Visits to the tower are very popular, and there can often be a line to enter. The tower only lets in 150 people at a time so the lines can move slowly.

Lisbon is currently renovating Belém Tower and has closed it to entry. Visitors should still walk around the exterior and see the sights.

Discoveries Monument

The Padrao dos Descobrimentos (or Discoveries Monument in English) is a monument honoring Prince Henry the Navigator and all Portuguese explorers. The monument was originally a temporary structure built for the 1940 Portuguese World Exhibition. The World Exhibition organizers took down the monument after this exhibition and then rebuilt it permanently in 1960. Prince Henry the Navigator stands at the front of the monument. Explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan and Vasco da Gama flank Prince Henry on both sides. If you have internet access at the monument and are interested in identifying each sculpture, go to this interactive website: https://padraodosdescobrimentos.pt/en/sculpture/

Just outside the monument is a map of the world in marble. The map is 164 feet wide and was gifted from South Africa. This map shows many of the routes and dates for Portuguese explorations. By looking at this map, you can see the breadth of the globe covered by the Portuguese explorers. Portuguese discoveries that are highlighted on the map include the Cape of Good Hope, a sea route to India, the Azores, Brazil, Greenland, and world circumnavigation.

Going inside the monument, you will find an auditorium and space for rotating exhibits. There is also an elevator to the top of the monument and a terrace. There are some great views of the river and the nearby Jeronimos Monastery from the terrace. If the line is short, consider going inside to see the exhibits and the view from the top of the monument (especially if you didn’t go up in the Belém Tower).

Jeronimos Monastery

The Jeronimos Monastery is an old monastery of the order of Saint Jerome located near the Belém Tower and the Discoveries Monument. The monastery was built on the site of the Ermida do Restelo chapel that had served the sailors setting off on voyages. The monastery symbolizes the age of exploration in Portugal. One of the sailors, Vasco de Gama, is entombed here along with many kings, poets, and other explorers.

The buildings include the Church of Santa Maria and the monastery. The Church is operated separately from the monastery, but it’s a quick visit to see the church and its massive organ. The monastery is most well-known for its architecture and two-story cloister in the middle. However, you will also want to see other areas of the monastery as well because it was immaculately constructed.

National Coach Museum

The next stop is the National Coach Museum. This extensive display of horse-drawn carriages from the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries is one of the largest in the world. The oldest carriages on display are those of Phillip II of Spain from 1581 – 1598. The collection also includes three carriages belonging to Pope Clement XI.

The majority of the coaches are the grandiose vehicles of royalty and the upper class. However, there are a couple that were used for other purposes like firefighting and mail-carrying. The museum is very well put together as the carriages are well preserved and the history of each is displayed alongside the display.

There are two buildings in the National Coach Museum. One houses the royal riding exhibits, while the other building has the other historical (and sometimes older) displays. You can buy an individual ticket to either building for €8, but it is worth paying €10 as long as you have the time to see both.

Gulbenkian Museum

The Gulbenkian Museum is an art museum located on the north side of Lisbon. It houses one of the largest private collections of art in the world. The founding art collection and a large portion of the total collection today were the private holdings of Calouste Gulbenkian. Gulbenkian made a fortune as a petroleum businessman. While he lived all over the world and his birthplace was London, he chose to live in Lisbon at the end of his life. Gulbenkian donated his private art collection and a significant fortune to create the foundation and museum that now bears his name.

The museum is built around two collections of artwork. The Founders Collection is the artwork collected by Calouste Gulbenkian during his life. This includes pieces from Egypt, Greco-Roman times, and the Near East. The other collection is contemporary Portuguese art. Appropriately named the Modern Collection, this collection shows off Portuguese art that is mostly absent from the Founders Collection.

The variety of art makes this museum a more engaging experience for those who don’t typically enjoy art museums. The Gulbenkian provides a free audio guide available via an app on your smartphone. The Android app is available here, and the iPhone version is available here.

Day 3 – Sintra Day Trip

Through much of Portugal’s history, Sintra was an escape for the wealthiest of Lisbon’s citizens. Sintra is located within the hills of Serra de Sintra. The cooler weather in these hills and close proximity to Lisbon is what drew the wealthy to the area. After the Portuguese royalty established their palaces in the area, grandiose residences of the Portuguese aristocracy followed. Sintra is also home to some amazing natural beauty. Much of the surrounding areas are visible from the tops of the hills. 

Lisbon to Sintra Train

Sintra is located about a 30-minute drive or 40-minute train ride from the center of Lisbon. Unless the train is much longer, I generally opt for it over driving. Trains tend to be less expensive and less prone to disruptions (accidents, traffic, road work, etc.). In this case, the train is only a little longer, and a car ride to Sintra is quite expensive. I also highly recommend against driving yourself.

There are two rail lines between Lisbon and Sintra. The first departs from Rossio Station in the Baixa district. The second departs from Oriente Station. Oriente Station is more convenient for those arriving from the airport or intercity train (since Oriente Station is the intercity train station for Lisbon). If you are following this itinerary and staying in the city center, the train between Rossio Station and Sintra will be the best option.

Tickets on this train cannot be purchased ahead of time, nor are there reserved seats. Purchase the tickets when you arrive at the train station. There are almost always available seats, even during the most popular travel times. Service is also very frequent on the off chance that one train is full.

Old Town Sintra

While not a very big town, Sintra boasts a historical town center that is worth a visit. There are many side alleys off the main streets that provide an excellent opportunity for exploration.

If you can get an early start to the day, I would recommend stopping at a local bakery in Sintra for breakfast. Piriquita is a favorite of travelers to Sintra. Once you have fresh bread or sweets in hand, wander the streets of Sintra as the town begins to come alive around you. Sintra attracts quite a number of tourists during the high season. Exploring the town either early in the day or late in the afternoon will help you avoid some of the rush.

Also, because so many tourists visit the city, it has begun to cater to them. For this reason, you won’t find as much authentic Portuguese food in the town as there once was. The town still has a historical feel to it, but if you are looking for authentic food and local shops you will have to do a little searching.

Tourist Bus 434

Sintra offers a public bus service that hits many of the major sights on this itinerary. While the loop begins at the Sintra train station, the first bus doesn’t depart until 9:15 AM. In order to get a head start on the itinerary, we will pick up the bus in old town Sintra.

The full bus route goes in the following order:

• Sintra Estação (Sintra Station)
• São Pedro de Sintra
• Sintra Vila (National Palace)
• Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle)
• Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace)
• Sintra Estação (Sintra Station)

The 434 bus departs approximately every 15 minutes from 9:15 to 7:50 PM. Tickets must be bought from the bus driver.

Pick up the bus at the Largo Ferreria Castro Bus Stop near LUXa Charmhouse Hotel in Old Town Sintra. Early morning pickups are at 9:22 AM, 9:52 AM, and 9:57 AM. Ride the bus to the Castelo dos Mouros stop.

Catelo dos Mouros

A Moorish castle built in the 9^th century, Catelo dos Mouros is a prototypical castle of the Middle Ages. This castle was a primary defensive location for the Moors around Lisbon. The castle was occupied until the Moors were pushed from the Iberian peninsula in the mid-1100s. At this point, the castle has fallen into ruin. When King Ferdinand II built Pena Palace, he also restored the Castle of the Moors as a showpiece.

The castle can be a playground for anyone who likes castles and Middle Age/Medieval buildings. All visitors are able to walk the castle walls, battlements, and towers. The viewpoints from the castle are spectacular as long as there isn’t fog or low cloud cover.

The castle is quite large and spread out. It takes take time to walk the whole thing. Depending on how fast you walk through the area, you may want to pick and choose some areas to concentrate on. In addition to the castle buildings, there are several trails located outside the walls that provide good vantage points of the surrounding town and the walls from below.

Park and National Palace of Pena

Pena Palace can only be described as an eclectic palace that Disney would be proud of. The modern palace was built in 1840 over the site of an old monastery and castle. The monastery and castle’s history dates to the Middle Ages where it was built on the supposed site of an apparition of the Virgin Mary. The Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755 reduced the castle and monastery to rubble. Later, the location was noticed by Prince Ferdinand, who built his summer residence on the spot.

During peak season (summer months), this is one of the most popular sights in Sintra. The park and palace sell a combo ticket online. This ticket includes priority timed access to the palace. This can be helpful to bypass the line of people purchasing tickets on the day of and ensure you stay on schedule. Note that the entrance time is to the palace and not the park, so plan accordingly.

After you have finished your tour of the Pena Palace, walk back to the 434 bus stop at the entrance to the palace. Take the bus back into Old Town Sintra. Exit the bus at the Palacio Valencas or News Museum stop. Buses departing Pena Palace are scheduled to leave at 2:16 PM, 2:46 PM, and 3:16 PM. From the Palacio Valencas or News Museum drop-off, walk 11 minutes (half a mile) to Quinta da Regaleira.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira is a famous estate built in the late 1800s for Portuguese millionaire Antonio Augusto de Carvalho Monteiro. The site also has the nickname, “The Palace of Monterio the Millionaire.” This estate is not only famous for its main residential area or castle. The estate grounds could be a destination of their own. These gardens possess statues, edifices, caves, and tunnels.

The most well-known location at Quinta da Regaleria is the Initiation Well. This 88-foot-deep well is accessible via a spiral staircase in the wall. The ornate construction gives the well a magic or movie-like feel to those who explore it. While it is called as well, it was never used as a source of water. The “well” was actually used for ceremonial purposes.

While the main house of the estate is overshadowed by the Initiation Well and the grounds, it is still a work of magnificent architecture. Antonio obviously invested a large number of resources in constructing this estate in the Manueline style. Antonio was believed to be associated with the Freemasons, and his affixation of the masons, knights templar, and related items are evident through the rooms.

Palace of Sintra

The Palace of Sintra is the final stop on our day trip to Sintra. This medieval royal residence was inhabited by the Portuguese monarchs from the 15^th century to the 19^th century. Compared to the Pena Palace, the Palace of Sintra is minimalistic on the exterior. However, the interior boasts many lavishly decorated rooms including such ornamentations as swan-covered ceilings and walls filled with coats of arms. The palace is known for its two distinctive conical chimneys. Visitors can tour the kitchens and see up these two massive chimneys which were used to vent the smoke from the kitchen fireplaces.

While this is worth a stop, it is the last site in terms of priority while in Sintra. If you are running behind on your schedule, this is the stop you will want to skip.

After seeing Sintra Palace, make your way back to the Sintra Train Station to catch the train back to Lisbon. The walk is about 10 minutes between Sintra Palace and the train station. Arrive a few minutes early to purchase your ticket, and make sure you catch the train.

Sintra to Lisbon

At the end of your day in Sintra, make your way to the Sintra Train Station. Take the same train you arrived on back to Rossio Station in Lisbon.