3 Days in Venice - A North Italy Introduction

Venice is known as one of the most romantic cities in the world. In this city, the old architecture is married with a multitude of canals that provide an atmosphere unlike any other in the world. The following is the first part of a four-part Northern Italy Itinerary. Read below for a great way to spend 3 days in Venice.

Day 0 – Overnight Flight

As with so many other European itineraries, this one also begins with an overnight flight. The vast majority of flights originating in the United States require an overnight flight to arrive in Europe. Given that the Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) is on the smaller side, most flights will also have a layover somewhere in Europe. If you are traveling at the appropriate time, you might get lucky with one of the seasonal non-stop flights from some of the US carriers. These non-stop flights are only really available from the US East Coast. Therefore, if you are coming from the West Coast, you will need to leave a little earlier on departure day.

Due to the layover, the arrival time of most flights at VCE is highly variable. Attempt to get a flight that arrives as early as possible. This itinerary assumes that you arrive and will get to your hotel on Day 1 prior to noon.

Day 1 – Venice

Check into Accommodations

The first thing to do after arriving and clearing customs is to check into your accommodations. This assumes that you are able to check-in. However, at the very least drop your bags so that you can start to see the city without lugging your baggage around. For these reasons, I always recommend an actual hotel or some accommodation that will allow you to drop your luggage and freshen up on the first day. While you can save a nice amount with Airbnb sometimes, they don’t provide some of these services (like bag drop) that can be the difference between having an enjoyable Day 1 and wasting a day.

Freeform Exploration of Venice and Lunch

A great way to start an itinerary in any new city is to do a little exploration to get your bearings. While there are several traditional ways to explore Venice, these are generally limited to a walk on foot or a tour via boat. Since Venice doesn’t have any roads, the hop-on-hop-off overview buses don’t exist here. However, don’t get the wrong impression. Venice is often flooded with tourists (especially during the high season). Therefore, be strategic about where you are going and when to avoid the crowds.

All arrivals to Venice (except those coming by boat), enter the islands via the northwest causeway. Given that Venice isn’t very large, I recommend starting to walk from here across the central part of Venice (San Polo district) towards Ponte di Rialto. This will give you an introduction to the canal and bridge system in the heart of Venice. While you will have seen the Grand Canal near the causeway, arriving at Ponte di Rialto will provide a completely different look at the center of Venice. As you walk, look for a café that catches your eye for lunch.

Ponte di Rialto

Ponte di Rialto (or the Rialto Bridge) is a major footbridge spanning the Grand Canal. This bridge is the oldest and most ornate of the four bridges that span the main canal. The canal crossing in this area was first constructed in 1173, but the bridge has been rebuilt several times since then. The current structure completed construction in 1591. The stone structure is composed of two ramps that form the pedestrian bridge. On either side of the ramps are several shops and stalls. These helped to pay for the upkeep and maintenance of the bridge in ancient times. Today, these shops cater to tourists mainly as this bridge attracts a large number of daily visitors.

On the northwest side of the bridge is the Mercato di Rialto. This is a very popular market for local chefs and restaurants. As there are no roads in Venice, so much of the shopping is done the old-fashioned way with local marketplaces. The Mercato di Rialto is primarily a fish market, but other items can be found here. While in the area (assuming you arrive before closing), take some time to explore the market. Although you are unlikely to buy anything, it’s a fun experience to see a part of the local Venice daily life.

Doge’s Palace

The Doge’s Palace is one of the two buildings anchoring St. Mark’s Square. This will be the next stop on the itinerary. The Doge of Venice was the ruler of the Venice Republic. While the Doge’s role was similar to that of a king, they were elected by the republic. The Doge’s Palace began construction in 1340 and was continuously added on. The palace not only served as the official residence of the Doge, but it also served as the seat of government. Several rooms in the palace hosted the Senators of the Venetian republic, receiving chambers for foreign dignitaries, and rooms for the administration of justice.

Prior to the 13th century, the palace also had holding cells that served as the local jail. However, in the 13th and 14th centuries, a new wing was constructed to be a complete jail. The new prison wing is connected to the Doge’s Palace by a bridge that has come to be known as “The Bridge of Sighs.” The name originates from the sighs of prisoners who upon receiving their sentence took their last look of freedom out of the windows of this bridge.

The basic entrance ticket to the Doge’s Palace is just that, an entrance ticket only. It doesn’t include an audio guide or any other guide material. Most will be able to wander the palace to see the art and the ornate structure; however, the historical meaning and significance will likely not come across. For this reason, I recommend either coming with guidebook material for the Doge’s Palace or getting additional guide services upon arrival. These will enrich your experience a lot by providing an understanding of the purpose for each room.

Explore St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco)

As it is getting later in the day, hopefully, the throng of people who normally crowd St. Mark’s Square are starting to clear out. When the square becomes less packed, this is an excellent opportunity to take in the picturesque square including the outside of the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica, and Campanile di San Marco (the bell tower).

If you are interested in going to the top of the 99-meter tall bell tower, that is possible. The lines for this activity are generally pretty long so I would recommend playing this one by ear. The next day’s itinerary includes another bell tower that can be ascended. This other bell tower, while not as tall, has arguably the better views as it looks back on Venice from a little outside the main city center.

Grand Canal Tour

Perhaps the most well-known and picturesque canal in all of Venice is the Grand Canal. The evenings make a great time to explore this canal when the traffic has died down. If your looking for a romantic evening, any number of gondolas or wooden boats can be hired for a canal tour. These tours will be pricy, but you are paying for the tourist experience just as much as the tour.

If the price tags of the private tours of the canal are out of your price range, I recommend a just as impressive transit down the Grand Canal on the public ferry. Ferry line #1 runs from the train station and bus terminal at the top of the grand canal all the way down to the Doge’s Palace. Ferry line #2 runs the same route in the opposite direction. For fairly cheap, these ferry lines provide an opportunity to tour the canal from top to bottom (or vice versa) in about 30 minutes. Get a map of the canals and some guide material to accompany you if you go this route. This way you will know what you are passing.

Day 2 – Venice

Gallerie dell’Accademia

The Gallerie dell’Accademia is an art museum that focuses on pre-19th century art. The building originally housed the art academy of Venice until it moved in 2004. The collection of artwork includes pieces by Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Giovanni Bellini, Tintoretto, and others. Seeing everything in the museum would probably take four or more hours. Given only three days in Venice, it is best to take a measured approach to the museum and learn about some of the most interesting art to you.

The gallery offers an audio guide. The guide only covers certain pieces of art so this is a good way to hit some of the highlights. While the audio guide isn’t anything earth-shattering, it provides some context for the artwork as well as some history on the artists.

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute is often described as the second most famous church in Venice (behind St. Mark’s). This Roman Catholic church is visible from St. Mark’s Plaza as it is located just across the Grand Canal. The Basilica is one of the many so-named “plague churches” in the city. In 1630, Venice had a very devastating bout of the plague hit the city killing about 1/3 of its residents. As an offering for the end of the plague, the city of Venice committed to building a church to Our Lady of Health. The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute was the result of that pledge.

Construction of the church began in 1631 and was completed approximately 50 years later in 1681. While the actual footprint of the church is small in comparison to other major churches in the city, its octagon shape and high dome give it a large feel when on the inside. The dome of this church became a part of the iconic skyline of Venice and has been the subject of several paintings and artistic works since its completion.

Access to the church is free. However, there are some works of art and museum artifacts held in the church’s sacristy. Entrance to the sacristy is €4/person. The church doesn’t take very long to visit; therefore, it is a great way to see an amazing piece of architecture while you are on this side of the Grand Canal.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

This is the day of art museums as the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is another showcase of art; however, this collection couldn’t be more different than what was seen before. The Gallerie dell’Accademia focused on pre-19th century art. In contrast, the Peggy Guggenheim focuses on modern art. This will likely be obvious as soon as you walk up to this building as its façade is even more modern than most of the buildings surrounding it. The collection building was the personal residence of Peggy Guggenheim. Peggy was an American heiress who collected all the modern art in the exhibit during her lifetime. The collection includes many pieces in the Cubist, Abstract Expressionist, and Surrealist styles by both American and Italian artists. In addition, the collection includes selections from Dalí, Picasso, Max Ernst, and several other prominent modern artists.

Many will have mixed emotions about modern art. Some will absolutely love it, and others will be less interested. Even for those who aren’t enthusiastic for modern art, the courtyards of the museum provide something of interest. The courtyard provides great views of the Grand Canal. The courtyard has a nice café as well where visitors are able to take a break from the art viewing. Finally, in keeping with the art museum theme, there are sculptures and art installations spread throughout the courtyard.

The museum offers audio guides. However, the usefulness is fairly limited so I would recommend passing on these and just take in the artwork. The museum curators do a few themed talks throughout the day in the courtyard about the art or the life of Peggy Guggenheim. These are much more insightful (and free). Therefore, I recommend attending one of these 15-minute talks if they coincide with your visit.

San Giorgio Maggiore

San Giorgio Maggiore is a church and attached bell tower located on an island adjacent but slightly removed from the main island group. The church began construction in 829 and forms the centerpiece of this island. A monastery was established on the island in 982. The current standing church was erected in 1566 in accordance with the traditional Renaissance style. The bright white marble of the church is a stark contrast to the surrounding building and water immediately in front of the church. Because of this striking visual, the church has been featured in several artworks and motion pictures.

Also attached to the church is a bell tower. While this bell tower is not as tall as the one in St. Mark’s Square, it has a better view in my opinion. Due to its location outside of central Venice, the views from the top include Venice within the lagoon. It also has views looking out towards the sea. A third positive for this bell tower is that the lines to the top will be considerably shorter given its location away from the main square of Venice. All in all, this is well worth the trip for the church and the bell tower. If you have additional time on the island, the cloisters and island surrounding can also be explored.

Day 2 – Venice Culture & Nightlife

Teatro La Fenice

The Teatro La Fenice (literally the Phoenix Theater when translated to English) is one of the most famous theaters/opera houses in Italy. This theater has seen its share of opera premiers including those by renowned composers such as Bellini, Verdi, and Rossini. The Phoenix name was given to the theater due to the fact that the theater was rebuilt after fires destroyed it three times. The fires occurred in 1774, 1836, and 1996. The last fire was unfortunately the result of arson. Each time the owners reconstruct the theater in the same spot with the most recent construction completed in 2004. The construction was a recreation of the old theatre and cost over €90 million.

While tickets to shows aren’t cheap, being able to attend a true Italian opera or show in this environment is special. If you are able to swing the cost and a show is occurring while you are in the city, it would be a shame to miss the opportunity. However, if neither the cost nor schedule suit your plans, tours are available. This tour should fit in at the end of day 3 if a show doesn’t work out.

Hotel Danieli

The Hotel Danieli is a five-star hotel in Venice. Originally constructed in the 14th century, the hotel regularly receives ratings in the top five in the city. While room rates at this hotel can be astronomical, the draw for most people will be the opportunity to see the lobby or have a drink at one of the two bars. Many notable people were regulars of the hotel and its bars. These regulars include Charles Dickens, Peggy Guggenheim, Harrison Ford, Steven Spielberg, and Benjamin Britten. The hotel’s other claim to fame is that it has hosted filming for three different James Bond films – Casino Royale, From Russia with Love, and Moonraker.

The lobby bar (called Bar Dandolo) is a great spot for an after-dinner drink. However, if you prefer something a little earlier, the rooftop bar (called Bar Terrazza Danieli) is a great option for any late afternoon or early evening break.

Day 3 – Venice

Cimitero di San Michele

The San Michele Cemetery is located all to itself on an island in the Venetian lagoon. The cemetery opened in 1807 and has several famous members of Venice buried within its gates. The most famous burial is Igor Stravinsky, a Russian/French/American composer and conductor whose claim to fame is The Rite of Spring ballet. While it might seem weird to go to a cemetery on vacation, this is along the way to Murano and has some interesting architecture and monuments that are worth a walk around. Cemeteries display how different cultures respect their deceased members. While I don’t always include stops like this on vacation, this provides an important insight to different societies around the world.

When visiting, there are maps available that will point you to different sections of the cemetery. There are separate sections set up by religious order with Catholics being buried apart from Protestants. The only building on the island is the front office for the cemetery. It does not have any services available to guests. Therefore, be sure to use the restroom ahead of time and to bring water or anything you will need while on this island. There is also no ticket office for the ferry so ensure you have an onward ticket or a ferry pass before arriving.

Murano Glass Factories & Exploration

The island of Murano built a reputation for its glass-making. In 1291, all the glassmakers from Venice were required to move to the island to remove the threat of fire from the main residential islands. Soon after this move, Venice started to become known for its glass-making. This island supplied much of Europe’s glass for many years. Artisan glass was also a chief export and included mirrors, enameled glass, aventurine glass (glass with gold threads embedded), and imitation gemstones made of glass. While industry glass manufacturing has caused exports to decline, glassmaking is still the island’s major industry.

For the next several hours, take the opportunity to explore the island. There are a number of glass factories and shops selling any number of glass items. The Museum of Glassmaking displays the history and process of glassmaking. Be warned that several glass factories will charge to watch their artisan’s work. However, there are a few, like Murano Art Glass LTD, that don’t.

St. Mark’s Basilica

This stately catholic church is one of the most famous structures in Venice. This Roman Catholic basilica serves as the seat of the diocese of Venice. The church sits in the main square of Venice. The church also features a direct connection to the Doge’s Palace.

The gothic-style church started construction in 829 but has been added onto and rebuilt several times since then. The current structure started construction in 1063 as the power of Venice grew. The interior of the church is covered in marble, precious stones, and jewels. This was an attempt to display the riches and wealth of Venice. In addition, the vast majority of the sculptures and architectural reliefs are not original to the structure. Venice participated in the Fourth Crusade from 1202 to 1204. The sculptures and reliefs were taken from Constantinople at the successful completion of that Crusade.

The most famous example of these spoils is the “Horses of Saint Mark” or “Horses of the Hippodrome of Constantinople” (depending on your perspective about their ownership). These four houses cast in copper/bronze originate in antiquity (created sometime between the 4th century BC and 2nd century AD). Soldiers from the Crusades moved these horses from Constantinople to Venice. They had a brief stint in Paris as well when Napoleon stole them in 1797. A fun fact is that the collars on the horses are not original. These collars were added in 1204 to cover where the horse’s heads were cut off to aid in transportation.

Visitors are able to see three distinct areas of the church. All are ticketed separately, but all are worth the visit. The actual church structure is a masterpiece and is adorned with so much gold, jewels, and other embellishments. The museum, Loggia dei Cavalli, tells the history of the church and provides a lot of context for its construction and meaning to Venice. The museum is also where you will find the “Horses of Saint Mark”. In addition, a museum ticket allows access to the roof of the church which is a cool experience during nice weather. Finally, the Pala d’Oro is a 10th-century Byzantine alter adorned with over 2,000 precious jewels.

Freeform Exploration of Venice

Since this is the last afternoon and evening in Venice, use it to relax or see things that you haven’t been able to see yet. There are several less-trafficked neighborhoods throughout Venice that are a great option for walking. Another option is seeing the Teatro La Fenice if you weren’t able to get a ticket to a show while you were there. Last, if you just want to relax, find a café or bar and enjoy the afternoon as you remember the experience of exploring Venice.

3 Days in Venice – A North Italy Introduction

Day 0 – Overnight Flight