When exploring Northern Italy, the major cultural centers of Venice and Milan are some of the places that immediately come to mind. However, Northern Italy has so much more to offer. One such location is the Dolomites. This is the name given to the Alps and the surrounding area on the Italian side of the border. After being in Venice, some outdoor exploration will be a great change-up. The following is part two of a four-part Northern Italy Itinerary. This post covers 2 days in the Dolomites of the Italian Alps.
- 3 Days in Venice – A North Italy Introduction
- 2 Days in the Dolomites – The Italian Alps (this post)
- 2 Days in Milan – Fashion Capital of Italy
- 2 Days in Lake Como – Europe’s Rich and Famous Playground
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Day 4 – The Dolomites
Tre Cime de Laverado
The Three Peaks of Laverado (or in Italian, Tre Cime de Laverado) are some of the most well-known and photographed peaks in all of the Alps. These peaks and the surrounding mountains formed the boundary between Italy and Austria-Hungary until World War I. The borders changed after that period so that both sides of the mountains are in Italy. However, the mountains still separate primarily Italian-speaking areas of the South from the primarily German-speaking areas to the North.
The best way to get to the peaks is to rent a car. There is a toll road that departs SS49 going towards Rifugio Auronzo. This toll road will bring drivers to a large parking lot that serves as the starting point for the hike. A word of caution – the parking lot can fill up during the high season. Arrive early to ensure that you are able to participate in this hike.
Despite the mountainous terrain, this hike is fairly easy. The hike is mostly flat with only a couple of short areas with large elevation changes. Otherwise, the paths are well-maintained and have been improved. The circular hike around the mountains is approximately 6 miles. While you could do this hike pretty quickly, there are several great lookouts, stops, and cafés (known as Rifugios) along the way. While the paths don’t require anything but walking on easy pathways, there are alternative paths that take visitors along more rocky and thrilling journeys if they so choose. There are also several World War I tunnels and bunkers in the mountains that you can find.
Lago di Braies
Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee Lake in German) is an amazing picturesque lake situated in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. This lake sits at the base of several mountains and alpine forests. Because of its unique position and scenic views, Lago di Braies is a very popular photography spot (especially for Instagram).
Those arriving at the lake will arrive just behind a hotel located on the lakeside. There are numerous parking spots that range in price from €6 – €15. Because the lake is such a popular place to visit, access to the parking lots and roads are often shut down when they are at capacity. This typically occurs between July and early September (coinciding with the European summer). When this happens, the lake can only be reached by public transit, on foot, on a bicycle, or if you have a paid parking reservation ahead of time. Parking reservations are sold beginning in June.
There are two activities that I recommend beyond taking the obligatory pictures from the shore and behind the boathouse. First, there is a loop trail that runs around the lake’s perimeter. The trail is 2.2 miles (3.6 km) in length and is a very easy hike. There is relatively little elevation change, and the hike can be completed in an hour and a half.
Second, boats are available for rent. Fitting for the picturesque nature of the lake, the boats are wooden rowboats. This is a great way to explore the lake and take some beautiful pictures. The boats allow up to four people. Keep in mind that swimming in the lake is not allowed, so you will have to settle for the rowboats as the closest that you can get to the water. Boats are booked onsite and cannot be booked ahead of time. The cost is €19 for 30 minutes or €29 for an hour.
Overnight in Ortisei
After seeing Lago di Braies, it’s time to move on to your overnight location. The little town of Ortisei will play this part nicely and position you well for seeing another famous Northern Italian site, the alpine plateaus.
Ortisei makes a great overnight location. It’s a small village surrounded by high plateaus and the Dolomite mountains. In addition, once you get to Ortisei you can park the car and walk through this small village. It has several nice boutique shops, restaurants, and small hotels. Finally, Ortisei is the base for several cable car routes that take visitors up the mountains or onto the plateaus. We will make good use of these cable cars during the next day of exploration.
Day 5 – Ortisei (Alpine Plateaus)
Alpe di Siusi Hiking
The Alpe di Siusi is the largest alpine plateau in all of Europe. This large mostly flat plateau is a mix of meadows and alpine forests. The plateau is also surrounded by the jagged peaks of the Dolomites. This grouping of meadows, forests, and mountains is an amazing trilogy of sights and is breathtaking throughout the year. The best way to see the Alpe di Siusi is to hike or walk many of the sections of the plateau. Getting to the plateau is easy from Ortisei by taking the Mont Sëuc Gondola (also known as the Ortisei-Alpe di Siusi Ropeway).
The Alpe di Siusi offers hikes and walks for people of all skill levels. Ultimately, what hike you choose is up to you. This is where I recommend going in with a loose plan; let your eyes and feet take you wherever it looks best. Because there are so many options, I will highlight a few in this itinerary, but don’t be afraid to deviate from this. The Alpe di Siusi also has cafés, hotels, and mountain huts scattered around the plateau. There aren’t so many that you feel like you haven’t escaped society, but they are sufficient to elevate this hiking experience. How many other places can you grab a beer and sandwich in the middle of your hike?
Alpe di Siusi Loop Trails
My first recommendation is to take some of the loop trails that leave the Mont Sëuc/Seiser Alm cable car station. There are a number of trails that run close to the edge of the plateau. These often have the best views of the surrounding mountains and the villages down below.
While there are several scattered hotels and cafés around the plateau, the largest collection is at Compatsch Compaccio. I recommend taking a walk through this area. You will feel like you have returned to civilization from the alpine plains, but it’s great to experience this small grouping of hotels, stores, and restaurants on the plateau. Based on where you have been walking so far, it feels almost like this grouping of buildings shouldn’t be here.
Lastly, I recommend getting some maps of the area for hiking. While you can definitely get paper maps in the area, I prefer the digital route. There are several options for the digital maps, but I tend to go with AllTrails. I have had good experiences with AllTrails in the past. Click here to read my review. This app works all around the world and can be a great guide in the Northern Italian Alps. As I mentioned earlier, don’t be afraid to make your route based on what you see.
Explore Ortisei
After a day filled with walking and hiking, spend some time relaxing and exploring the mountain village of Ortisei. There are several cute shops and restaurants in the “downtown” area of Ortisei. Wander as much as you like. Head back to your accommodations when you have had enough and need to rest.
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